![]() Engine bay heater hoses join to rear heater pipes in cavity between 2 firewalls. Jeep GC has 2 firewalls and between is cavity and it is accessible by simply removing wiper arms, then unclip and raise plenum plastic cover, no need to remove cover completely, lift and prop up. Heater hoses are complete set including mounting plate. If there is a lot of fluid loss, I'll know the leak is on the other side of the firewall (and not inside the engine compartment) or the heater hose itself (doubt it). I hate to pay a mechanic $1,000 or so for this job (mostly to remove all the plastic cowling / covers" in order to replace parts). I only drive 10 miles (at most) each day, so this may work until I work up the courage to do a full replacement like some have done on this thread. ![]() Will see tomorrow how much fluid has leaked out of the system. I used a screw driver to screw on the clamp, but at some point, I switched to a socket wrench with a long neck that allowed me to get into that hard to reach area. Took me around 30 mins because it was hard to get to. Then I put an old fashioned screw on clamp around the rubber jacket and tightened it down (but not too tight that I crack the plastic elbow). The "jacket" came from the heater hose I bought, and I just clipped around a half inch off the end. ![]() I put a rubber hose patch (I call it a rubber jacket) that wraps all the way around the entire plastic neck of the plastic elbow that is leaking. He showed me how the leak was streaming coolant from the plastic elbow and then traveling down the heater hose. He said the leak is coming from the little plastic elbow that connects to the firewall. I told him that the heater hose had to be replaced. So I drove the car to a mechanic buddy who had a pneumatic clamp wrench. However, the clamp release flanges were situated below the hose on the underside (does Jeep do that on purpose ?), so after trying several times, I determined that my pipe wrench would not work. I had a small pipe wrench that I thought would work (do not have one of those pneumatic clamp wrenches) and started to get dirty. Bought a $5 heater hose (same diameter and thickness) from the local parts store then went home. I looked at the hose and thought that I could do it myself. Total labor - 5 hours - at a cost of $1,000 including $80 just for the hose itself. The dealer said he would have to remove the firewall cowling (above the hose) in order to have more access to loosen the clamps and remove the hose. ![]() I saw the coolant fluid leaking from the bottom of the hose, so I thought his diagnostic made sense. Mechanic at Jeep dealership said the elbow shaped heater hose was leaking (after I paid $150 for a diagnostic that I am sure took under a minute). AC problems are always best left to your professional mechanic.I have the same problem. Never attempt to replace a hose that is connected to the air conditioner in your Grand Cherokee - these hoses contain refrigerant that is under pressure and can blind you. The video above shows you where coolant hoses and coolant reservoir on your 2012 Grand Cherokee Limited are located and the steps needed to first minor leaks. In addition to looking for cracks, analyze the brittleness or squishiness of the hoses in your Grand Cherokee - if the hoses are hard to squeeze or squeeze very easily, it's time to replace them. In 2012 Grand Cherokees with the 5.7 liter engine, coolant leaks are most likely to occur where the hoses connect to the engine, but it can also leak from the reservoir or from the hoses. You can avoid getting stranded by identifying signs of extreme wear before they break and fixing minor leaks promptly. The hoses carry engine coolant (which is also known as antifreeze or anti-freeze) through your engine and will eventually wear out. The video above shows to fix minor leaks in the coolant hoses in your 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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